Helpful Dog Care Tips

Canine Rescue and Adoptions - Kingwood, Texas

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Always walk your dog on a leash. This ensures the safety of the dog, you, walkers, joggers, and people on bicycles.

Puppies as well as older dogs need supervision and training when there is a swimming pool in the yard.

Big dogs don't need to have big yards. What they do need is plenty of attention and a walk every day.

There are many products available to control and eliminate fleas. Your veterinarian can advise you on safe, topical applications such as Advantage, Frontline and many other available products. Or combination Heartworm Preventative & Flea Control such as Revolution or Sentinel.

CONTROLLING FLEAS IN YOUR HOME WILL HELP KEEP FLEAS OFF YOUR PET AND YOU. If you don't want to use poisons, vacuum every two days and empty the bag after 3-4 uses. There are now non-poisonous treatments for your home, some of which can be applied by the homeowner and others by professionals. These are generally very effective.

TREATMENT OF YOUR YARD IS A MUST IN CONTROLLING FLEAS. Alternate the type of pesticides used: diazinon, dursban, malathion. Use the liquid form and make sure to spray 3 feet up on the sides of your home and fence to help control other pests. This is either a do-it-yourself job or one performed by a professional.

1. Start with a dry dog and dry comb.
2. Prepare "flea soup" (a small bowl of water with a few drops of liquid dish detergent added to the water-i.e. no suds)
3. Start at the pet's nose and work back toward the tail. Do not remove the collar with ID tags. Work around it.
4. Use short, firm strokes in the same direction as fur growth.
5. Inspect comb after each stroke remove debris (dander, dead hair and fleas) and place in the "flea soup".
6. Keep the tines dry, hold the handle and push the debris underwater.
7. Fleas love white/blond fur and hate the light. You will soon discover that while you are working on the dog's back, the fleas will crawl around to the belly. Flip your dog over and comb the belly quickly. Yes, the fleas will crawl around to the back again. Flip again and comb.
8. You now have an ugly mess in the bowl.....flush it.
9. Use the flea comb on a regular basis.
10. Use the flea combing time to check your pet's ears--keep them clean and dry. If the ears
smell bad, get him/her to the vet for treatment and lessons on how to keep the ears clean and dry.
11. Bathe your pet when he/she is dirty and keep bedding clean.
12. Those of you with double-coated dogs can also use a flea comb with good results.

FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS ON A REGULAR BASIS will help control flea problems for you and your pet.

HEARTWORMS CAN KILL YOUR DOG! Year round medication is necessary in this part of the country. Your vet can advise you.

KEEP YOUR DOG'S VACCINATIONS UP TO DATE! This typically requires only one or two visits a year to the vet.

MANY COMMERCIAL AND GENERIC BRAND DOG FOODS AND TREATS ARE DESIGNED TO BE PLEASING TO THE HUMAN EYE, with lots of colors, shapes, strong smells, and "fillers". These foods contain useless empty calories and an excess of nutrients that can lead to many health problems. Skin allergies, kidney disease, high blood pressure, and bone abnormalities are just a small sampling of the health risks to your pet. These types of food also cause loose and strong smelling excrement.

PREMIUM DOG FOODS, SUCH AS IAMS AND SCIENCE DIET, USE A "FIXED" FORMULA which ensures that the ingredients are pure. They have the correct balance of vitamins, protein, minerals, and calories.

WHEN BUYING DOG FOOD, REMEMBER TO CONSIDER THE AGE, BREED, ACTIVITY LEVEL, AND SIZE OF YOUR DOG. Puppies, 8 weeks to 11 months adult dogs, 1-6 years and seniors, 7+ years, need to be fed with food that is formulated for their specific needs.

EATING HABITS ARE STILL BASED ON THE INSTINCTUAL HABITS of the dog's wild counterparts. Some dogs feed on a "stuff-yourself-or-starve" mode and tend to eat more than they need when food is made available to them. For this reason, owners must be in control of their dog's food intake. Obesity is very harmful to your dog's health at any age. It puts undue stress on vital organs that can lead to serious health problems.

IF YOU FEEL YOU MUST GIVE YOUR DOG LEFTOVERS AND TREATS, add the leftovers to his/her evening meal, making it only 10% of the total amount of food provided. Use only bland leftovers: rice, noodles, potatoes, bland gravies, and soups. Avoid heavily seasoned foods. Treats, such as dog biscuits, need to be dye-free. As a rule of thumb, "if you wouldn't give it to an infant, don't give it to your dog".

THE OLD SAYING, "YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT", APPLIES TO DOGS as well as to humans. By choosing the right food, giving the dog daily exercise, regular grooming, and timely vaccinations, you are helping your dog to have a healthy, happy, long life.

Your dog is much more vulnerable to summer heat than you are. Make sure he/she has shade and plenty of water if left in the yard. Be especially careful when exercising your dog during the hot season. Do not force your dog to run or walk with you. Exercise with your dog only if you are confident that you can recognize when he/she has had enough. Provide plenty of water at all times. Heat stroke is a very real (and life threatening) possibility if your dog overheats. Don't hesitate to contact your vet if your dog seems under distress due to the heat.

Male dogs need to be neutered by 5-6 months of age, not just because of over population but because:

They will be less aggressive
They will be less territorial
They will be less combative
They will be less prone to prostate cancer and other hormone-driven tumors in later life

Adult males neutered later in life will show a decrease but not a full elimination of the above problems. IT'S NEVER TOO LATE TO NEUTER YOUR MALE DOG.

Female dogs need to be spayed by 5-6 months of age. There aren't enough homes for the puppies and full-grown dogs that are already here.

A spayed female will not go through the stress, emotional turmoil, and bleeding that an unspayed dog lives through every three months.

The scent of a female in heat will attract unneutered males for miles. The males will dig out of their own yards and into the female's yard. Dogs will gather, causing dog fights that could put nearby children in danger.

There is no need to spend a lot of money on dog toys, some of the best ones are free. Egg cartons plastic milk cartons without the cap cereal boxes and paper towel tubes work well. Make sure the dogs shred but don't eat these items. A sock with a tennis ball inside and knotted makes a fun toy.

Balls are always a dog favorite, but it's very important that the ball is too big to get caught in the dog's throat.

A child's wading pool-hard plastic (not blow-up!) kind-provides wonderful summer fun for dogs of all ages.

To reduce shedding, groom your dog often. He/she will love it and it gives you and your dog special time together. There is a wonderful grooming tool called an undercoat rake. This removes the old undercoat of your dog.

If your dog is lost, call all vets in the area with a description. Put up signs in the neighborhood and at main intersections. Place signs on grocery store bulletin boards.

When adding a second dog to your family, follow these guidelines. The new dog should be:

The opposite sex
The opposite age, at least one-plus years apart
Have an opposite temperament from the first dog

Your first dog may be jealous of the newcomer. Give him/her reassurance, praise, petting, and individual attention, especially during the first few weeks.

DOES THE WORD "CRATE" OFFEND YOU? The thought of putting a dog in a crate is unsettling to many people. Humans must try to understand the way their dogs think before they are comfortable with crating their cherished pet. The use of a crate is not mean-it is actually a kindness that you can give your dog. Yes....a kindness. Please keep reading.

ANY WILD CANINE WILL SECURE A SMALL, SNUGLY PLACE TO CALL THEIR OWN. This space represents security to the dog. In its den it cannot be attacked or bothered, so it's able to relax fully. This instinctive desire for a secure den is the basis of the psychology behind using a crate as a training aid. Once the pet owner has overcome any misgivings about "crating" their dog and accepted the reasoning behind it, he/she will feel comfortable using the crate.

TO ACCUSTOM YOUR DOG TO ITS NEW CRATE, prop open the door and allow the dog to explore the confines of the crate. Placing food or a toy inside will encourage it to step in. When the dog seems comfortable, close the door and keep the dog confined for about five minutes. When you let the dog out, do so unceremoniously with a little pat and a "Good Dog".

EACH TIME YOU PUT YOUR DOG IN THE CRATE, increase the time confined. Eventually, the dog can be left in the crate for several hours. If the crate serves as the dogs's bed, the dog can be crated through the night. Don't overuse the crate, however. Both you and your dog should think of the crate as a safe haven, NOT AS A PRISON. Many dogs learn to go directly to their crates when they want to get away from a lot of commotion and need some quiet time.

NO UNTRAINED DOG SHOULD BE GIVEN THE RUN OF THE HOUSE. This is not only foolhardy from the standpoint of protecting your belongings, but also from the standpoint of protecting the dog. A dog could chew through electrical cords get caught in blinds chew furniture or eat poisonous plants. The list of dangers is endless, the harm done can be tremendous.

HOUSEBREAKING IS MADE EASIER when an owner relies on the help of the crate. Dogs will avoid soiling their living space. In other words, it will help your dog to learn self control. Be sure your dog has had ample opportunity to relieve himself before being put in his crate. Crate training in conjunction with housebreaking should never be used as a form of punishment. THE CRATE SHOULD NEVER BE USED AS A FORM OF PUNISHMENT.

IF YOU HAVE TO BOARD YOUR DOG WHILE ON VACATION, take the dog's crate to the boarding facility. The caretaker will have a much easier time caring for your dog. Your dog will love having the security of its own crate in an unfamiliar and stressful environment.

WHY DO DOGS DIG? THEY ARE BORED, FORAGING FOR FOOD OR BURIED TREASURE, AND IT'S FUN. The simple fact is that they are dogs, and it's the "dog" thing to do.

PROVIDE AN OUTLET. Set up a digging play area just for your dog. Pick a small area in the yard. Make it easy for your dog to dig there. Loosen the soil and remove any large rocks. This is his "turf" to do with as he pleases. Make sure the area is acceptable--both summer and winter. Make sure that the area has shade from the hot sun and is sheltered from cold winter blasts. Mix in some sand to provide proper drainage when it rains.

If you don't want any area of your yard dug up, a child's wading pool filled with loose dirt and sand is an excellent alternative.

LURE HIM TO THE AREA AND TEACH HIM TO DIG. "Scent" the area to draw your dog there. Chicken broth or beef drippings sprinkled widely and lightly across the area will draw the dog's nose to his pit. He will dig to investigate the scent and thus will have started the habit of digging where appropriate.

Bury some "treasures" there for him to find: toys, chew bones, and tasty treats. Bury them all around his pit and just below the surface. Allow some of them to stick out during the beginning of his training.

Now, let's teach him what's there that this is his area and that this is where he should dig. Lead or lure him to this "pit". Use the same verbal command (a code word) each time you want him to use this digging area. Walk him there and don't be afraid to get down and dig with him. Praise him for digging in the pit. This is especially important when the dog goes to his pit on his own.

Continue to seed his "digging pit" with goodies during the training. Every dog is different, and there isn't a set time limit on training your dog.

REPRIMAND AND DISCOURAGE DIGGING IN OTHER AREAS. Until you are sure appropriate digging behavior has been established (i.e. your dog digs in his own pit), you need to spend as much time in the yard with him as possible. If he starts to dig where it is not appropriate, use a firm loud "NO", walk him to his pit, and use the code word. Praise him as soon as he begins to dig there. He will soon learn that this is the only "allowed" digging area. Never hit or punish your dog for holes in the "unauthorized" areas.

IF YOU DON'T WANT A DIGGING PIT of any kind in the yard, there is another way to stop the digging. Every time the dog digs a hole in the yard, flower bed, or at the fence, fill the holes and/or line the fence with his excrement. This method does work for some dogs after just a few hole fillings.

ALWAYS REMEMBER, it is easier to teach the dog what is right, rather than reprimand continually for the vast number of things he can do wrong.

CHEWING IS A NORMAL CANINE BEHAVIOR. Dogs use their mouths as we use our hands for grasping food gaining information about their environment relieving boredom and reducing tension. Chewing is also an important adaptive behavior that protects the animal from possible entrapment. Besides all this, chewing appears to be great fun. However, chewing becomes a problem for the dog owner when valued objects are damaged. Destructive chewing follows only aggression and house-soiling as the most common behavior problem. Diagnosis and treatment of chewing problems can be frustrating, but prevention is relatively easy.

THERE ARE MANY REASONS WHY DOGS CHEW, some of which are obvious teething puppies are incredible chewing machines. The speed at which pups can wreak havoc in a home is unbelievable. Many an owner unwittingly contributes to the problem through improper training. They think their pup is smart enough to tell the difference between stuffed toys and the corners of upholstered furniture. Likewise, tug-of-war games can set the puppy up for a fall. Can we really expect the pup to differentiate between a towel used for play and curtains and bedspreads?

ILLNESS CAN LEAD TO DESTRUCTIVE CHEWING. Upper gastrointestinal irritations, dental and gingival pain, and swallowing burrs, grass, and small twigs during grooming can cause your dog to engage in destructive chewing.

ANXIETY IS ONE OF THE LEADING CAUSES OF DESTRUCTIVE CHEWING. Some people chew their nails, smoke, or drink to release tension when they are anxious. Dogs bark, pace, eliminate, and chew. Separation anxiety, fear of thunder, boredom, or long periods of confinement can lead to chewing.

IMPROPER PUNISHMENT METHODS, ESPECIALLY DELAYED OR VERY HARSH ONES, CAN TRIGGER CHEWING PROBLEMS. What often happens is an owner returns from work to find chewed woodwork or soiled carpet and hits the dog. Dogs's have a well developed biological clock. After such a homecoming punishment occurs several times, the dog becomes anxious and starts chewing at the end of the day as it anticipates the owner's return.

TREATMENT OF DESTRUCTIVE CHEWING INVOLVES THREE STEPS: Removing the cause guiding the dog toward proper chew items and guiding the dog away from inappropriate items. It is not necessary or even possible in many cases to stop the dog from chewing. What is important is that the dog chews on appropriate objects and avoids the owner's belongings.

PROMOTING DESIRABLE CHEWING. Directing the dog's chewing intentions toward appropriate objects is straightforward. You need to find toys that the dog likes. Encourage the chewing and reward the dog each time he/she chews his toys.

Offer the dog a wide variety of toys. When the dog shows a preference for one type, buy several more of that type. Smear the toys with a small amount of peanut butter, bacon grease, or cheese to encourage chewing. Give large amounts of praise every time the dog begins chewing the toys.

Another way of getting the dog interested in his toys is to teach him to play fetch. Do not take proper chewing for granted. Every time the dog's mouth touches the toy, he/she should receive large amounts of praise.

DISCOURAGING UNACCEPTABLE CHEWING. Guiding the dog away from chewing the wrong things takes some ingenuity. Until you can trust the dog, constant supervision or confinement to a safe area is needed. Depending on the situation, you might wish to consider using a crate or a baby gate.

As the dog is allowed more freedom, he can be taught to avoid previously chewed objects by making them taste bad. A small amount of cayenne pepper mixed with water petroleum jelly or white vinegar are deterrents for most dogs. For the dog that doesn't mind the hot pepper taste, try oil of citronella, which is very bitter. When many items must be protected or if a crawling baby in the home reduces the desirability of using cayenne pepper on everything, you can give the dog an object (not one of his toys) that has had air freshener sprayed on it. When the dog spits it out, give him lots of praise. The air freshener will become a cue for the dog to avoid items that carry that scent. Then, a small amount of freshener can be used throughout the house to signal "DON'T CHEW".

If the dog has a habit of chewing specific items, such as clothing or shoes, you should be sure all clothing is put away except one or two items that have been treated to taste bad. Every day, the items should be moved to a new location in the house. Eventually, the dog will learn to avoid chewing on these things. REMINDER, be sure to have the dog's own good-tasting toy(s) nearby.

A soda can filled with a few marbles or pebbles is also a great deterrent. When you see your dog starting after anything but his own toys, rattle the can loud and hard with a firm verbal "NO". This will startle your dog and he will quickly learn that this is a major "NO-NO".

WHAT NOT TO DO. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOUR PET BE SPANKED, SLAPPED, KICKED, OR PHYSICALLY PUNISHED IN ANY WAY. The risk it too high that the dog will become "hand shy" or a "fear biter". Use verbal reprimands followed by encouragement to chew on the dog's own toys. To be most effective, the reprimand must be given during the misbehavior, never afterward, and must be given every time the dog misbehaves.

MOST PROBLEMS ARE EASIER TO PREVENT THAN THEY ARE TO SOLVE. Take time and be patient with your dog. You will soon have a non-destructive and happy dog.

DOG CARE TIPS